"Mi Buenos Aires Querido"

In March of 2012 I went to BA for the first time. When I came back I was asked to write an article about it for a blog called "The delicate strength". I don't know if that blog is still around and how long it might exist, that's why I decided to publish the article on my blog too.

Buenos Aires Trip 2012, Part 5

Somebody had warned me that the cleaning lady in their apartment stole some valuables. For that reason I had tortured the landlord with questions about the trustworthiness of their cleaning lady. He assured me that I shouldn't worry about that at all, which turned out to be true. What I should have worried about was the quality of her work. The dirt redistribution on the apartment floor, the unchanged sliminess of the bathroom tiles and the unchallenged dirt on the counter tops made me think that she probably understood her job as the attempt to make things somewhat less dirty instead of really clean. Needless to say that I wasn't happy with her. And yet this wasn't even what really upset me about here presence in the apartment. My distress was caused much more by the fact that she let her 2-year-old son, with a lollipop in his hand, to roam our apartment and touch everything with his sticky hands. After they were gone I discovered that he had left me that same lollipop as a present in a pile of my pills, cellphone and foot products, after clearly playing with them first… Luckily for all participants the week after we had another cleaning lady, who did an excellent job.

You know how they say that trouble never comes alone? Well, on the same day when I discovered the previously mentioned Catch 22 situation with the phone card and found the present left for me by the son of the cleaning lady I had one more trouble, this time at the laundromat. Fairly close to where we lived there were many laundromats. At the one closest to our apartment the clients were not allowed to do their own laundry. For the price of 20 pesos (about $5) per bin of clothes the people at the laundromat wash, dry and fold your clothes for you, which is not bad. What was bad was that they shamelessly charged me 50 pesos at pick up although in a week my dancing partner and I had managed to fill up only 2 bins. Since this was the last straw after all the difficulties of the day I didn't feel like arguing about what's wrong with the math 20+20=50. The next day I returned to the laundromat in a search of a green, lace top, which I thought had gotten lost there and which I wanted to wear at the milonga. "No," said the woman, "we don't have your top… But we have a forgotten batman T-shit… Do you want it instead? :)" Oh Batman, Batman, how elegantly we would have looked at the milonga: me - in a skirt and high heels, you - plastered all over my oversized, dorky T-shirt…!

After I managed to understand the description of services a laundromat offers, and quarrel with the phone company about band widths and refunds, I gotta tell you - understanding people tuned out to be no problem for me. I am pretty fluent in Spanish (but you know - what the porteños speak is not always Spanish) and even if I didn't understand or manage to say everything the way I intended, I found a way to work around it. The only thing that I still don't know is what were some of the veggies in the empanadas I was eating. Although, honestly, I didn't care too much. All I know is that they were good! :) Speaking of empanadas - if you don't like the ones at your closest bakery, try the ones at the next - all bakeries and all pizza places have empanadas and the quality varies a lot. Also, turns out that restaurants usually don't sell empanadas. Go figure. By the way, while I'm still more or less on the topic of languages - even if you don't speak Spanish you have little to worry about. In the milonga, since you will be cabeceo-ing people, you don't need to speak English. In the stores they sometimes speak English but even if they don't often common sense is enough when picking what to buy. In the classes the teachers explain sometimes only and sometimes mostly in Spanish. But even in the second case you won't get very detailed translation. You should keep your eyes open in order to catch what's going on from what the teacher is showing. In the end many of the young Argentines can say at least a couple of words in English and some speak actually quite well if not fluently.